Plain Weave

Updated: Jul 18, 2021


Plain weave:

A plain weave is the repetition of two ends and two picks even though the weave is shown on a greater number of ends and picks. Plain weave is also known as “Calico” or “Tabby” weave.

Representation of plain weave:




Draft and Peg Plan of Plain Weave:




Characteristics of plain weave:

  • There are maximum number of binding points.

  • Threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.

  • The thread density is limited.

  • Fabric thickness and mass per unit area is limited.

  • It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze” or “cross weaving”.

  • Plain weave fabric has no right and wrong side.

  • No lengthwise of crosswise stretch, only stretch is on the bias.

  • Plain weave fabrics Creases easily.

  • Plain weave fabrics are Durable.

  • Plain weave fabrics are easily flexible.

  • Plain weave fabrics are Versatile.

  • Plain weave fabrics are less absorbent than other weaves.

  • Fabrics range in weight from sheer to heavy, depending on the yarns used.


Range of Textures produced in Plain Weaves:

The plain weave is produced in a variety of forms and textures, possessing totally different characteristics, which adapt it for specific purposes.

A variety of forms in textures are produced :

  • By causing a differential tension between the warp threads during weaving.

  • By using various counts of yarn for weaving different types of fabrics.

  • By using warp and weft yarns of different counts in the same fabric.

The term ‘texture’ is related to type of material, counts of yarn, relative density of threads, weight, bulk, feel during handle, and other properties. The range of textures produced in plain cloth is wide. An ideal plain cloth is one which has identical or similar warp and weft constructional parameters.


End uses of Plain weave:

  • Cambric.

  • Muslin.

  • Blanket.

  • Canvas.

  • Dhoti.

  • Saree.

  • Shirting.

  • Suiting.

  • Toiles in the case of Calico fabric.

  • Outer garments.

  • Digital Print Fabrics.

  • Technical Textile applications.

End uses of plain weave:


Classification of Plain Weave:



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Teaching Aid / Material

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1up X 1down weave
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